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Lucas 35DLM8 distributor |
The RV8 adventure continues. I've replaced the two fuel filters (you wouldn't believe what the insides of the small one look like), cleaned and replaced the stepper motor (I have a new one standing by if needed) and installed new plugs, leads rotor and dist cap. Now the car won't start. Fuel is flowing, plugs are firing. Most obvious is timing is out. However....I didn't loosen the distributor or affect timing in any way.
Something strange that did occur; while trying to remove the rotor (rusted on), I noticed a lot of rotational free-play in the shaft. Much more than I would have suspected. It's probably close to 30* of travel. With that much, I'm wondering how I'm supposed to set the timing.
I just read on the RPI Engineering site that there should be no movement of the rotor at all. Either rotationally or side-to-side.
Any ideas on what may have happened? As you may know from my previous posts, the car did start quite well and ran okay for the most part. Ideas, as always, are appreciated. |
| Simon Austin |
| 12 March 2010 @ 05:30 |
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topic: RV8 |
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Reply(ies) received for this Message
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Lucas 35DLM8 distributor |
| I had this problem many years ago on a Hillman Minx! One of the distributor drive shaft splines at the bottom had sheered off. I would have thought that you would have noticed this when driving along because the engine would start to stutter and when you came to a stop, would not start again obviously. I've never heard of this happening on a RV8. Lets hope this might be a red herring! |
| Peter Garton |
| 12 March 2010 @ 07:28 |
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Lucas 35DLM8 distributor |
Hi Simon,
You're having your fair share of teething troubles, aren't you. For a start (sorry, no pun intended), as you've had the stepper motor off, reset the base idle speed - instructions are in the repair manual. And trial fit the new stepper motor.
Otherwise, as it was running before, double-check everything on the ignition which you've replaced so far, especially that the new rotor arm is not slipping on the distributor shaft and that the tag is not at all loose on the plastic body.
Distributor play certainly doesn't sound good. Don't suppose that the screw in the centre of the top of the shaft is loose? If when you investigate you find that Peter's Hillman Minx experience has been repeated, I think that Land Rover's part number for the 35DLM8 is ERR4738(A) (supercession of ERR4035A) - do double-check though. (No idea if you can replace just the spline).
The engine is tolerant of a fair amount of variance in timing, from say 3 degrees btdc up to perhaps even 10. Most guys have it between 5 and 7 degrees I think. |
| Stuart Middlemiss |
| 12 March 2010 @ 09:05 |
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Lucas 35DLM8 distributor |
Simon
As you have replaced the plug leads and distributer cap, check you have the firing order correct, and the cap is not 180 degrees out. I have made this mistake several times when rebuilding and couldn't fathom out why the engine would not start. Also reluctant engines often start with a squirt of Bradex quick start (a pure ether injection). Hope this helps. |
| Pete Jevons |
| 12 March 2010 @ 09:32 |
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Lucas 35DLM8 distributor |
| I am indeed, Stuart. One thing I should have done after replacing the stepper motor and prior to replacing ignition parts was to start the car and see if the "cleaned" SM would work. As well, I could have set the base idle speed. Now I'm beyond that. I'll double-check everything again and take a closer look at the distributor itself. Thanks for the ideas. |
| Simon Austin |
| 12 March 2010 @ 21:40 |
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Lucas 35DLM8 distributor |
Further to my dist issues, I've been in touch with a guy in the US who rebuilds distributors about what's happened to mine. Here's what he wrote back:
"When you pulled up on the rotor, it lifted the whole assembly out of place. That brought the Electronic trigger wheel assembly out of position, above the advance weights instead of meshed with them. The only repair that can be made is to fully disassemble the distributor, modifiy the shaft, and add a screw to retain the advance aassembly so it won't happen again. By this happening, the advance springs are both stretched too far, causing damage that will make timing unstable unless they are replaced. There's a fragile plastic spacer below the advance assembly that needs to be in the perfect position while its reasembled or it will break. Without it, the advance will bind at will. Sorry for the bad news, but this is a case where a little plastic clip that probably saved Lucas about $.03 is now a serious problem."
Based on this info, I may try to source a new or good, replacement unit and keep this one for a spare, after rebuilding, of course. Anyone have a good Lucas dist for sale? |
| Simon Austin |
| 13 March 2010 @ 17:19 |
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Lucas 35DLM8 distributor |
Simon,
You might want to check out an ebay sale for a new pattern 35dlm8 it looks good and a lot cheaper than a genuine Lucas one, which are difficult to source. they also ship worldwide ebay no 120539380576. Best of luck |
| Pete Jevons |
| 13 March 2010 @ 18:14 |
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Lucas 35DLM8 distributor |
| Thanks for the link, Pete. I'll check into it. Thanks to all for the moral support as well. I know I'll get this sorted out and it'll all be worth it in the end. Cheers, |
| Simon Austin |
| 14 March 2010 @ 02:35 |
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Lucas 35DLM8 distributor |
| Simon! Why don't you get out the camera and put the data together for an RV8 note? I can't imagine that a lot of owners have had the complete RV8 distributor to pieces let alone have it out of the car! Your US contact sounded really to be on the ball. |
| Peter Garton |
| 15 March 2010 @ 06:24 |
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Lucas 35DLM8 distributor |
| Good idea, Peter. I'll be shipping the distributor off today so will ask the rebuilder to take photos if possible. |
| Simon Austin |
| 15 March 2010 @ 16:56 |
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Lucas 35DLM8 distributor |
| I also have one of these distributors in my V8 conversion as I used a Range Rover engine from the 90s. I am finding that the mechanical advance is not as great as it should be. For instance, if I set the 800 rpm idle timing at 4 degrees BTDC (vacuum disconnected), the max advance I can get by revving the engine is only to about 20 degrees BTDC, whereas I think it should go to around 30 degrees. I am beginning to think I need a refurbished dizzy too. Any thoughts? |
| Mike Howlett |
| 21 March 2010 @ 20:31 |
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